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Registration for the Summer 2010 season of Taglit-Birthright Israel trips is now open. Complete registration instructions are available at http://www.goucher.edu/hillel.

Student Journal: Final Reflections

[written by trip participant and Towson University student Rachel S.]

This trip to Israel has completely changed my life. Everything we saw was absolutely breathtaking, and I love how there is a story behind everything, a recent story. I will be back sometime real soon, hopefully within the next few years. I have learned so much about Israel, and I hope I continue to learn more. I have also learned a lot about myself. I love everyone I met on this trip and I'm going to miss our soldiers. A lot! I love how close everyone got on this trip, and I hope to hopefully return with a few of them soon.


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Brittani K.]

Not enough words could describe how unbelievable this trip to Israel was. On the airplane flying to Israel I kept saying how surreal this trip was. Every place we visited and every person on this trip made this long-awaited “dream" the absolute best it could be. The hikes, the time spent together, everything was so amazing. This trip truly changed me. I want to come back to visit so soon because I've grown such a love for this country. I'm going to look into studying abroad here as well. I feel like everyone on this trip completed this “family” we've become and of course it would have never been the same without our amazing soldiers. I love everyone and will miss this trip so much! Always cherish the memories!


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Jessa L-M]

Taking a trip (to Israel) has always been a dream of mine that I never really knew how I would fulfill. When I heard about Birthright I thought it couldn't be true! I'm so glad this opportunity was available and that I was able to take advantage. I've seen and learned so much in only 10 days! This trip has changed my views about Israel and about Judaism in a positive light. It's amazing to me how close and welcoming Israel is as a people and a country. I hope I can take what I've learned and pass it on to my family and friends. I also feel more comfortable about my Jewishness to be more involved. I hope to visit Israel again. Lehit’raot!


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Evan T.]

I never realized what I was about to get myself into. This trip to a country few of us have been, but all of us anticipated to see for so long. This was about to be the most influential trip of my life. Instantly after I stepped off the plane, I knew this trip was going to be special. Describing all of the memories that we all share together here is too hard to explain, because it seems that once we all got close, the good times never ended. From visiting the Western Wall on Shabbat, to floating with each other in the Dead Sea, this trip is an experience I will never forget. Much thanks needs to go to our wonderful soldiers, who I believe, single-handedly brought this trip together and made this trip a special place in all of our hearts. It's now the last day and I can honestly say that I never want to leave this place. Until next time... Yours truly, “Big Evan”


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Rachel L.]

I came to Israel an American first and a Jew second. Leaving Israel, I'm a Jew first and American second. This trip really helped me get in touch with my identity to help me figure out who I want to be. There were many things I experienced that were unlike anything before. Israel is truly a unique place and I cannot wait to go back.


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Brittany W.]

This trip has been very memorable and meaningful. Having been to Israel prior with my family, I definitely loved experiencing it with everyone. My favorite part is that we all became close like family. On each hike there was always someone who stood behind all the difficult parts helping everyone through. For example, after I fell on my face everyone was there for me. I'm going to miss all our inside jokes and definitely the soldiers. I can honestly say that without the soldiers, the trip would not have been the same. I learned a great deal about their culture and lifestyle. This is been the best 10 days, so I know the memories will be with me forever.


[written by trip participant and Towson University student Alex B.]

Dear everyone, I am not the kind of guy that writes letters but will make this exception. There are no words to describe how amazing this trip was and how great it was to get to know all of you. I know you think I party hard, but every group needs their party animal deep down. Traveling with every one of you was an experience I will never forget. Seeing the views and learning everything from Michael was amazing. I guess that's why they call it Amazing Israel. I hope that we can all meet up and keep in touch as much as we can. Love, Alex


[written by Mifgash member Yoav F. and translated from Hebrew]

Well, it’s over.... I must say that I didn’t expect to become such good friends with people! In any case, you are eternally burned into my heart! Love, Yoav

Friday, Shabbat, and Sunday

On Friday, the group ascended Mount Bental in the northeastern Golan Heights. It was a little hazy, so the group was unable to see all the way to Damascus, but the view of Syria and of the entire immediate vicinity drove home how strategically crucial the location was in battles for the Golan Heights some forty years ago. Bus 35 also did a hike through the Jilaboun Canyon. The group heard tales of Eli Cohen, an Israeli spy whose legendary work in Syria in the early 1960s continued to benefit Israeli intelligence and military operations even after he was exposed and hanged in 1965. His successful suggestion to the Syrian army to plant fast-growing eucalyptus trees for shade around their bunkers allowed the Israeli air force to readily locate and destroy many of those bunkers during the 1967 Six Day War. On Mount Bental, the group also learned of a turn-around victory during the 1973 Yom Kippur War, when Avigdor Kahalani led 30 Israeli tanks in overtaking ten times that number of Syrian tanks. Had the Syrian tanks prevailed in that location, it would have been very easy for Syrian forces to press forward into Haifa and perhaps even to Tel Aviv. The group had the chance to step inside of a bunker on Mount Bental before tasting the fare at Coffee Anan, the highest-altitude cafe in Israel. "Anan" is the Hebrew word for cloud, but the pun in light of the cafe's proximity to UN sites was not lost on the group.

Throughout the day on Friday, Bus 35 saw evidence of abandoned Syrian outposts, rusting shells of Israeli military vehicles, and other silent memorials to the area known since the bloody battles mentioned above as "The Valley of Tears." Those stark remnants contrasted poignantly with the lush, green, post-volcanic natural surroundings. The group climbed up and down cliffs, saw volcanic rock up close, and even enjoyed tea made from locally-growing vegetation.

That afternoon, everyone had the chance to do some pre-Shabbat shopping and prepare themselves in the spirit of "Hiddur Mitzvah," beautifying the way one carries out a Jewish practice (lit. commandment). The group gathered outdoors on a sprawling lawn at Kibbutz Gonen, their home for the final three nights of the trip, to welcome Shabbat with a songful prayer service. As the sun was setting with the hills of Lebanon and Syria in view, the evocative words of Psalm 29 describing that very locale rang especially true. Bus 35 was ready for a day dedicated to resting and savoring one another's company, and everyone enjoyed a really nice Shabbat dinner together as a group. Following the meal, the group was treated to a special Oneg Shabbat complete with Israeli wine and desserts. A handful of students had put together a "Whose Line Is It Anyway"-style series of improv games for the group to play, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the impressions of the different staff members that were showcased before the night was over.

On Shabbat morning, everyone had the chance to sleep in. Those who wished participated in a late-morning Shabbat prayer service. Later in the day the group was treated to a tour of the kibbutz where they were staying, which has an agricultural focus. Bus 35 learned about the general changes the kibbutz movement has undergone over the years, and the group also heard about how Kibbutz Gonen in particular was affected during the Second Lebanon War during the summer of 2006. The group gained an ecological understanding of the area as well. The Chula Valley had been a large swamp at the time of the founding of the state of Israel, and in the 1950s people set out to drain the swamp in order to eradicate malaria and make the region more hospitable. However, this dramatically impacted the existing ecosystem. Deprived of an important source of water, waves of Afro-European bird migrations were no longer able to stop there. Attempts to re-flood parts of the area and restore some of its natural robustness have been explored in recent years.

Following Shabbat lunch, the group kicked off an impromptu soccer game with some of the young kibbutzniks. Several of the students elected to celebrate becoming bnei mitzvah, reaching the age of Jewish adulthood, on this trip. Goucher students Abby and Ben offered thoughtful and touching reflections as to why they were choosing to celebrate their emergence as full participants in the Jewish community at that moment in their lives and in that location. Both their words and their choice to be called up to the Torah that afternoon testified to the power of the community they have discovered and created as part of this journey. The bar/bat mitzvah celebration was a truly crowning experience for the entire group.

Bus 35 bid farewell to Shabbat with an intimate havdallah ceremony, marking the separation between the sabbath and the rest of the week with song, sweet-smelling spices, a braided candle and a sip of wine. The ritual elements help individuals hold on to the multi-sensory sweetness of the Shabbat that they have just experienced, carrying those individuals through whatever the coming week may bring.

On Saturday night the group visited a brand new mall in Rosh Pina. The Goucher contingent set the record (with the help of a few willing translators) for Hollywood trivia in a sushi restaurant that had just opened there. The group also made its mark at a karaoke bar later in the evening.

This morning, Sunday, the group loaded up the bus for the last time on this trip. The students, soldiers, and staff were bound for Misgav Am and a clear view of Lebanon this morning, to be followed by a few hours in the mystical city of Tsfat. They are to make their way to Tel Aviv this evening for a final banquet, and the students from Baltimore who are not extending their stay will be boarding a plane in just a few hours.

The group is bringing many mixed feelings into the remaining hours of the program. Often, a participant pointed out, one is ready to return home by the end of a trip. That may not be the case for Bus 35, however. It seems that this trip will mark only the beginning of a long-term, evolving relationship between the participants and the land and people of Israel, as well as their personal Jewish identities.

Wednesday and Thursday

Bus 35 woke up in an expansive Bedouin tent on Wednesday morning. Following a delicious breakfast, the group drove from the desert to Ashkelon, Baltimore's sister city in Israel. There, Bus 35 met up with the other Taglit-Birthright Israel group hailing from schools in Baltimore. It was the last day of the other group's trip. Everyone learned a little bit about the partnership between Baltimore & Ashkelon. The partnership resonated particularly strongly with the members of Bus 35 because several of the students' Israeli peers in the "mifgash" are from Ashkelon. In fact, independently of one another, two of the mifgash members' mothers baked chocolate cakes and brought them to the group while Bus 35 was in town. Amir & Snir: thanks!

In Ashkelon the combined group of 100 students, soldiers, and staffers split up into two groups to conduct service projects in the area. One half went to a "beit avot," a home for the elderly, where, together, the residents and visitors worked on several craft projects. The residents of the home reflected Ashkelon's diversity, having come to Israel from Romania, Tunisia, India, and elsewhere. Two of the volunteers from Bus 35 used their Russian language skills to fluently communicate with and interpret for a few of the residents, much to the residents' delight. The other half of the combined group of volunteers went to a school and worked on several outdoor projects. Despite the language barriers, the volunteers enjoyed playing with the kids and connecting with people in Ashkelon of all ages.

A few of the students from Baltimore were tasked with preparing lunch for the hundred volunteers. They put together a traditional Israeli spread, featuring meats, chummus, rice, potatoes, and other dishes. Before leaving Ashkelon the group walked by one of the only K-12 schools in the country. Kids were dancing outside, and the members of Bus 35 were quick to join them!

From Ashkelon, Bus 35 traveled to Tel Aviv. Many tourists who pass through Tel Aviv visit Independence Hall, Rabin Square, and a handful of other landmarks. Bus 35 had the opportunity to truly interact with Tel Aviv as a living, breathing city. Exploring the city by foot instead of catching glimpses of it through the bus windows, the students witnessed some of the artistic and cultural vibrancy of Tel Aviv firsthand. The students took note of theaters, structures from Tel Aviv's renowned Bauhaus architectural boom in the early twentieth century, activity in a public park, Tel Aviv's GLBT center, and more. The group also had close to two hours of free time in the Shenkin Street area, a very popular and cutting-edge shopping district. At Independence Hall the group saw a brief film about the history of Tel Aviv and the founding of the modern state of Israel. The group then filed into the very room in which David Ben Gurion declared Israel's independence in May 1948, which is set up in the same way as it was arranged on that warm Friday afternoon, and the group heard a moving recording of Ben Gurion delivering parts of that momentous speech. It had already been a long and full day, but after checking in at that night's hotel, the students found the energy to go out on the town and get a sense of the night life in Tel Aviv with their new Israeli friends.

Thursday morning the group headed to neighboring Yaffo / Jaffa. There, the whole group celebrated as six students took on Hebrew names. The ceremony was punctuated by recitations of the poem "Each of Us Has A Name" and the traditional priestly blessing, singing "Siman Tov / Mazal Tov," and rejoicing with plenty of candy. The group also got to make a stop at Jaffa's famous flea market.

The group's final destination that day was in northern Israel, but everyone appreciated the significance of the stops the group made along the way there. Michael, the tour educator, brings a great deal of experience in coexistence work to his tour leadership, and the group benefited tremendously from his expertise as Bus 35 made several tolerance- and conflict-related stops. Michael took the group to Saalem to see with their own eyes the security barrier that Israel has been constructing over the last few years. Bus 35 is the only Taglit-Birthright Israel group to have done so. The group learned about the structure of the security barrier (96% of it is fence and 4% is concrete wall, and the stretches of fence often have 40-50 meter buffers, for example), its history, its role, and the impact it has had on local residents. The students had the opportunity to hear directly from local Israeli Arabs who shared their personal perspectives. The group also stopped in Arabbe, at Tent of Peace, and met with a professor who discussed what the Israeli Arab population might want in terms of recognition. A brief film about the B’nei Sachnin soccer team, the first Israeli Arab team to unseat all of Israel's other soccer clubs and proceed to compete in Europe, gave students further insight into the intercultural dynamics at play in the region.

Bus 35 then made a special trip to Michael's home, Yuvalim. Yuvalim is a "community village," a designation applied to certain successors of the early modern Zionist model of a collective kibbutz. Until recently, Michael explained, business owners needed to congregate in large urban hubs in order to achieve success. With the near-universality of internet use now in many fields, however, one can reside outside of a big city, even in a small village with a decidedly unique character, and still enjoy success. The members of Bus 35 looked out from their vantage point on a hilltop in Yuvalim as the sun was setting on Thursday. They heard a muezzin's call from a mosque in a village nestled below them. Drawing upon the day's experiences and what the group had witnessed throughout the trip up to that point, Michael posed questions about what it means to be a pluralistic society. Do we need to be a melting pot? Perhaps, he proposed, a salad bowl would be a preferable aspiration, inviting people to live in peace and with understanding, but side by side.

There is no doubt that the students will continue to consider and encounter questions like these once they return to campus. Equipping the students with the tools and desire to ask and address those questions is an invaluable gift Michael and the other staff members are offering the students. Following Thursday's face-to-face discussions and challenging the students to continue engaging in these matters, Michael told the group, "If you think you understood, you didn’t get it. And if you think you didn’t get it, you probably did.”

Bus 35 made its way to Kibbutz Gonen, in northern Israel, where the group was to spend the night Thursday.

Student Journal: Wednesday

[written by trip participant Rachael T.]

One of my most memorable experiences from this trip was our visit to the old age home. It was so nice to spend time with these people and you could tell that it made them so happy. Although there was a language barrier we were still able to get to know them and help them with an arts and crafts project. It was also just really nice to see that the elderly people in Israel have such a fun and loving environment they can live in as they get older. This experience meant a lot to me and I'm so happy I was able to make their day just by spending time with them.


[written by trip participant Brittany A.]

This has been the experience of a lifetime. There is so much culture and history in the state of Israel. From climbing Masada to taking tours and seeing villages, there is history everywhere. The most rewarding part of this experience has been going to the old age home. It showed that although a language barrier may be there, you can communicate in other ways. Just doing arts and crafts with the elderly brought joy to their life and mine. The company of others is something that is understood by all and I'm so glad I have the company of these 45 other people!


[written by trip participant Gabby G.]

This trip has been the best experience, and I could not have imagined a better time. Climbing Masada was a real accomplishment, and completing it with friends made it so much better. Sleeping in a tent in the middle of the desert was fun. This trip has really helped me meet a lot of new people, and now I have 45 new friends.


[written by trip participant Evan]

This trip has been great. From floating in the Dead Sea to the 3 a.m. hikes, it's been great meeting all these people and doing activities during the day and then going out at night as a big group. This is something I’ll remember in 50 years.

Student Journal: Tuesday

[written by trip participant and Goucher student Channa R.]

How many once-in-a-lifetime experiences can you pack into one day? Apparently when you start out at 3:30 in the morning, quite a few. Yesterday [Tuesday] was the most incredible day of my life. It doesn't seem possible that I experienced so much in one day, but it actually happened. We woke up at 3:30 a.m. and left the Kibbutz to head toward Masada before sunrise. We took the Roman ramp up. We reached the top and saw the colors of the sunrise. It was an amazing view to be so high on a mountain and see the desert and the Dead Sea with the backdrop of the sunrise. The people who lived on Masada must have loved that. After touring Masada and seeing the fascinating ruins, we hiked down the snake path (I was one of the 20% of people whose legs shook :) ). Oh, and it was only about 10 in the morning and we had all hiked up and down a mountain! Needing some rest, we made our way to the Dead Sea. Although a bit chilly, the experience of the Dead Sea was great. You lie back and you float! I've always heard that, but I never really understood until I was there. At around two o'clock we got on the bus to the next location. At that time we had already had such a full day, having been at the high elevation of Masada and the lowest place on Earth, and if the day had ended there it would have been enough, but we still had so much ahead of us. We drove for a bit to the Bedouin tents and got off the bus and straight on the camels and donkeys. My donkey was very friendly and I felt a nice bond; the camel was a little grumpy. Riding both was such a great experience, and it brought home an almost reality to the desert - this is how people got around in the desert, and I was on it! I climbed a mountain, floated in salt water, and rode a camel and a donkey in one day. Still after that we ate delicious Bedouin food, had a spiritual program just outside the lights of the tents in the desert, and slept in a tent. The day was full and the day was amazing. It's hard to believe we experienced it all in one day.

Student Journal: Monday

[written by trip participant Amanda R.]

Boker Tov! It's 11 o'clock on Monday morning and we are on the bus heading south! This morning we went to a bird observatory and learned that almost all birds travel through Israel while migrating to other countries. We watched the staff at the observatory measure the wing length of the bird, weigh and number them so they can be identified. And of course all the birds were set free! We also planted trees at the observatory which was a lot of fun.

I am so happy to be in Israel and experience the culture and see the cities I have only learned about in a textbook for so many years. I love being in a country where mostly everyone is Jewish and the streets are basically empty on Shabbat, something I will never expect to see in New Jersey! The old city of Jerusalem was breathtaking and I really felt like part of history by getting to be there on Shabbat and getting to put a note in the Western Wall.

In Jerusalem we also visited Yad VaShem, the Holocaust Memorial and Mt. Herzl, where many soldiers are buried. The most emotional part of the day for me was when we went to the newest part of the Mt. Herzl Memorial which was created in 2006. We then sat down in an empty area and our tour guide, Michael, reminded us that the area we were peacefully sitting in today would probably not be vacant for long since Israeli soldiers die every day.

Although sightseeing is amazing, I feel that our trip is really punctuated by getting to share this experience with her Israeli soldiers. I love getting to talk to them about the similarities and differences in our cultures while knowing that no matter how different our lifestyles are, we do have a shared Jewish identity.

I am so thankful for the opportunity to come to Israel. And having a great time and looking forward to the next six days, especially climbing Masada tomorrow and going to Tel Aviv later in the week! I know that when I come home I will have lots of stories to share with my friends and family as well as pictures and Bamba! I also know that the memories I am making will last a lifetime!

Student Journal: Sunday

[written by trip participant Michael F.]

The scenery is awesome. The breathtaking views from vantage points illustrate the general and awe-inspiring theme of the city rising up out of the desert can be seen throughout the land. Old Jerusalem, rising above the desert and seemingly hundreds of thousands of years old breaks through into the new city. In the new city, the architecture gives you the same feeling of historical significance that resonates throughout the mountains and valleys; however nothing compares to the experience of meeting people from around the world. Exchanging stories, viewpoints, and jokes you realize that they are just the same as you... people. I shall not forget everything they have taught me.

Student Journal: Sunday

[written by trip participant and Goucher student Abby L.]

Hello all, or should I say, boker tov! We are all so excited to be here. I'm not sure it has quite hit us yet, but it might tomorrow when we will wake up at four in the morning to climb Masada! We are currently on the bus going south after spending three wonderful days in Jerusalem. The old city was truly magnificent, and the Western Wall was an experience I'll never forget. It was so interesting to see the difference between the men and women’s sides. The men were dancing and singing in their minyan, while the women were much quieter and praying. And we also had Shabbat, shopped on Ben Yehuda Street, (I got to haggle for a purse and saved 20 shekels!) and spent a night out in Jerusalem. Those are only some of the highlights -- our days have been packed! Yesterday, we all got up relatively early, ate breakfast, and then went to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Museum. We learned so much, and although it was an emotionally draining experience it was worth it. The museum is shaped like a triangle, and when you get to the end, it opens up to the city of Jerusalem. After that, we went to the Israeli market (Machane Yehuda). We had the opportunity to get falafel - I got a sandwich instead. I walked to different shops and then we all had to leave. The Israelis bought us all chocolate. They've been incredibly generous and sweet! Later we went to Mt. Herzl, the military cemetery. We learned a lot of history and we were amazed by the importance of it all. We saw the newer part, which was the saddest part. We then went back to the hotel, had dinner with Goucher president Sandy Ungar, then saw an Israeli filmmaker, who showed us a different side of Israel. I am so happy to be here and cannot believe that I been given the opportunity! It's time to nap, Bye!

Student Journal: Saturday

[written by trip participant and Goucher student Hannah L.]

On Saturday morning, most of us slept in due to sheer exhaustion. I, however, managed to drag myself out of bed to attend Orthodox services. While I myself am not Orthodox, I really wanted to experience a side of Judaism I have not been exposed to before in my life. I was lucky enough to have a fellow student, a modern Orthodox from JHU, help me out throughout the service, although we were both equally lost at some points! The service was beautiful and an exemplary example of community, spirituality and tradition. I loved watching and attendees engage in singing and in worshiping, particularly since the core similarities bound us across religious differences. This experience provided an incredible insight into this part of Israeli society.

Sunday Night, Monday, and Tuesday

Goucher College President Sandy Ungar and his wife, Beth, joined the group for dinner at the hotel Sunday evening. Each party had the chance to compare notes from their respective trips. Ann Young, a Goucher alumna from the class of ’98, joined them as well. Following the meal, the Ungars and Bus 35 enjoyed an evening of cutting-edge Israeli culture. A new Israeli filmmaker, Yishai Goldflam, screened two fourteen-minute films and facilitated group-wide discussions about each. The film "Eruv" raised questions of boundaries and possibilities in romantic relationships between religious & secular Jews in Israel. The film “In Sight” (a possible play on the word “insight”) offered the audience a glimpse into the emotional inner lives and the moral quandaries facing four fictional snipers in the Israeli army.

On Monday morning, the group helped plant trees at a bird observatory. In the process, they learned about biodiversity and protecting local species. An expert at the observatory explained how to ring and tag birds in order to track their migratory patterns and study how human activity impacts the natural world.

The group then set off on a long bus ride for the southern part of Israel. The drive offered everyone a chance to relax a little bit—to debrief their experiences in an unstructured way, joke around, and deepen their developing friendships with one another.

Following lunch, everyone in the group completed a fairly strenuous, "amazing" hike through the canyon at Ein Ovdat. It is part of the largest wadi (dry riverbed) in the Negev Desert, and the stunning vegetation there, in contrast to the surrounding areas, grows thanks to underground springs. The group learned a great deal about desert wildlife, and Hannah L. made a rare and exciting discovery: a fresh paw print, thought to have been left by one of the 5-10 leopards naturally populating the area. The group encountered a new kind of challenge, scaling cliffs and engaging their physical strength, and everyone seemed to appreciate the opportunity to experience nature in a way that had not been possible while in the city of Jerusalem.

The group paid a visit to Sde Boker, where Israel's first prime minister, David Ben Gurion, had personally labored as well as galvanized others to "make the desert bloom." Ben Gurion spent his years after retiring from political office at Sde Boker, and he and his late wife are now buried there.

There, the group was briefed with a security update from Micha'el, the guide. His overview of Israel's territorial changes over time as well as the current geopolitical situations involving Palestinians and Iran impressed the students, as he was able to "teach politics without being too political." Given the students' training in critical thinking as Goucher students (and their natural curiosity as "global citizens"), this was high praise.

The group reached Kibbutz Mashabei Sadeh, their home for the evening, where they were joined for a second time by Sandy and Beth Ungar. Although there are close to forty students on the bus, representing several colleges in the Baltimore area, the Goucher group gathered for a separate conversation with Sandy and Beth. The thoughtfulness the students brought to the conversation shone: they are continuing to process the experiences they're having even after they board the bus to depart for a different destination. The Goucher group discussed the impact the trip is already having on their identities, on their bodies of knowledge, and on their willingness and desire to engage with issues they hadn't previously wanted to touch. The mifgash (encounter) in particular has been quite a powerful thing. Having eight Israeli peers from all sorts of backgrounds be a part of the group from day one has really impacted the Goucher students' conception of what it means to be Israeli and even Jewish. The students reported that evening that they are learning that Israel is a place where, no matter one's political orientation, engaging with complicated issues is imperative. The students spoke of their emerging struggles to define their connections to Israel, especially as those connections can be in constant flux. Perhaps, the students reflected, by virtue of being a Jew one has a connection to that place, and one's "birthright" is to engage critically and actively with that connection.

On Tuesday, the group woke up at 3:30 a.m. in order to climb Masada before sunrise. The view from the top as the sun rose to meet them was enthralling. Micha’el shared popular stories of Herod building the ancient fortress atop the mountain—the ruins of which Bus 35 had ample time to explore. Instead of focusing on the legendary zealots who are said to have taken their own lives when they thought they could not escape death at the hands of their enemies, Micha’el’s offered a different interpretation of the Israeli aphorism “Masada will not fall a second time.” He explained that the sentiment behind the saying can be a desire never to find oneself without a multiplicity of options. The feeling seemed to resonate with the students as they learn more and more about life today in Israel.

After descending from Masada, the group continued to head deeper and deeper below sea level until reaching the Dead Sea. They spent four hours there, floating and doing their best to keep the salt and minerals in the water out of their eyes.

The group paid a brief visit to a mall in the southern city of Arad, and when the day’s driving had concluded they were at the Bedouin tent that would afford them hospitality for the night. Immediately upon their arrival the students were herded, as it were, onto camels and donkeys for a ride around the area. One student's donkey decided it was going to be a bucking bronco, but everyone emerged from the experience unscathed.

That night the group enjoyed an outstanding hafla, a traditional Middle Eastern feast and celebration. Everyone was seated on cushions or mats around large circular trays of never-ending dishes of hummus, fresh pita bread, and other delicacies. Following the meal the group mingled with other Taglit-Birthright Israel participants enjoying Bedouin hospitality that night around a big bonfire.

After time to decompress, Bus 35 gathered in the darkness of the desert for a discussion about spirituality. Rabbi Josh and Alison led the group in singing "Hinei Ma Tov" before giving everyone several minutes of time dispersed on their own under the stars. The students were subsequently paired up to share their reflections with a partner, and then the group came back together as a whole. The sense of respect and community in the group allowed the students to deeply share what they had experienced in solitude as well as reflections on moments of spirituality throughout their lives.

Friday, Saturday, Sunday: Celebrating Shabbat in Jerusalem

The group has had a powerful first few days in Israel. Bus 35 enjoyed calling Jerusalem home from Friday through Sunday, celebrating Shabbat and visiting the Old City and the Western Wall, Israel's Parliament building and the Supreme Court, Ben Yehuda Street (a popular pedestrian mall), Yad Vashem (the world center for documentation, research, education and commemoration of the Holocaust), Mt. Herzl (Israel's national cemetery), Machane Yehuda (Jerusalem's outdoor market, also known as the shuk), and more.

Welcomings

Upon arriving at Ben Gurion Airport, the participants were greeted by several key people. Micha'el, the tour educator, whose storytelling skills and vast knowledge have already captivated and enriched the students on the trip, began making the students feel welcome before they even boarded the bus that will continue to transport them for the duration of the program. The participants also met the eight active Israeli soldiers who have been given special dispensation to leave their posts for the next several days to accompany the group in a peer-to-peer mifgash (Hebrew for "encounter"). Many of the eight soldiers hail from Baltimore's sister city in Israel, Ashkelon, or nearby Ashdod. Their names are Chen, Or-Tal, Gavi, Snir, Amir, T.B., Gal, and Yoav. Because of Israel's compulsory military service, the Israeli soldiers and North American students are the same age. The mifgash lets trip participants see Israel through unique and relatable perspectives, as well as reintroduces the soldiers to their home through the eyes of someone seeing it for the first time.

With the soldiers, students, luggage, and staff on the bus, the group made its way toward Jerusalem early Friday morning. Bus 35 stopped at the Haas Promenade to be formally welcomed to Jerusalem with a taste of wine, some rugelach (fresh pastries), and the opportunity to say the Shehecheyanu prayer, giving thanks for having reached a momentous occasion. Micha'el oriented the group with an impressive run-down of Jewish history from the time of Abraham to the founding of the State of Israel (1948) in less than twenty minutes.

The group continued on to the hotel, where they dropped off their belongings before setting off for the Old City of Jerusalem. There, the group visited the Davidson Center to gain a sense of the ancient layers of Jerusalem's history. Ongoing excavation efforts through the Davidson Center, some 100 meters south of the Temple Mount, allowed the students to observe and stand in places that had been completely buried until very recently, where stones had been thrown down during the destruction of Herod's Temple in the year 70. Virtual reality reconstructions also allowed the students to glimpse what the Temple might have looked like prior to its destruction nearly two thousand years ago.

The students then enjoyed lunch on their own in the Old City, and many chose to enjoy their inaugural Israeli falafel, much to their satisfaction. After some free time for shopping, the group reconvened and made its way to a rooftop overlooking all four quarters of Jerusalem's Old City (Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian). Micha'el pointed out that for folks using Europe, Asia, and Africa as their geographic frame of reference, the Middle East is central. In the heart of the Middle East is Israel, in the center of which lies Jerusalem. At Jerusalem's core is the Old City. The group's rooftop position at the nexus of the Old City's four quarters afforded everyone the chance to be welcomed yet again--this time, to the very center of the world.

One astute student asked why the group was being welcomed again and again; isn't it redundant? The group then learned about the Jewish injunction to practice hachnasat orchim, welcoming guests, as well as the value of mindfully savoring moments. The group was also told of the following legend regarding the creation of the world. Each day of creation is said to have a partner: the first and fourth days are linked by the initial creation of light & the subsequent creation of celestial bodies; the second and fifth days by the creation of a firmament separating the waters above and below and the later creation of birds & sea creatures to populate those realms respectively; and the third and sixth days by the organizing of bodies of water to expose dry land and the antecedent creation of animals and humans to populate the land. Shabbat, however, had no partner. Therefore, it is said, the Jewish people itself serves as a partner for Shabbat, the day of rest. In traditional Jewish liturgy for Friday night, Shabbat is described as a bride to be welcomed by her partner. The liturgy was penned by mystics who did just that, venturing outdoors at dusk on Fridays in order to greet the Sabbath bride and re-center themselves, much like the group was doing this past Friday on a rooftop in the center of Jerusalem.

Shabbat

With the sun descending on Friday evening, the group made its way on foot to the Kotel HaMa'aravi, the Western Wall. That the visit was on Shabbat meant experiencing not just a special place, but a special time. The students had witnessed firsthand the transformation of the Old City during the afternoon into a frenzied pre-Shabbat zone, and then into a place of stillness and palpable spirituality as people stepped into the day of rest. Thousands of people amassed at the Kotel to mark the start of the Sabbath with prayers. Some of the members of Bus 35 were whisked into circles of people dancing: jeans among throngs of black suits and hats, voices rising together.

The group endured a long walk back to the hotel (about 1.5 hours) before getting its first night of sleep since leaving the United States. Needless to say, the students made their way to bed as soon as they finished a delicious Shabbat dinner back at the hotel.


On Saturday, Bus 35 walked over to the K'nesset, Israel's parliament, and the neighboring Supreme Court building. The group saw the iconic menorah, pictured here, outside of the K'nesset, and learned a little bit about how Israel operates and its system of governance. Everyone then settled in at a rose garden to have the first of several facilitated group conversations, this one about Jewish Memory.

After a light evening meal back at the hotel, the group bid farewell to Shabbat with a brief ceremony called Havdallah. The students enjoyed two hours of free time on Ben Yehuda Street that night, learning from their soldier counterparts to haggle over prices with store owners in true Israeli form.

Sunday

A lot of Taglit-Birthright Israel groups are in Israel right now; Bus 35 was staying in the same hotel as six other groups over the weekend. When the group reached Yad Vashem, Israel's Holocaust commemoration museum, on Sunday, 1,700 personal listening devices had been checked out.

Sunday was a tough day emotionally. Many members of the group were particularly touched by the Children's Memorial at the museum. The museum tour guide truly brought to life many of the artifacts housed there. He spoke of the impossibility of understanding what had happened, and of the importance, therefore, of remembering what had been lost, feeling a sense of loss, and ensuring that similar atrocities never again happen.

The group also had a special audience with Duki Gelber, a Holocaust survivor from Holland who has lived in Israel now for more than fifty years. He had had a relatively privileged life as an "Exchange Jew" for much of World War II, but he spent over a year at the concentration camp Bergen-Belsen before being liberated.

Micha'el, the tour educator, pointed out the juxtaposition of Israel's national observance of Holocaust Memorial day, Yom HaShoah, and Israel's Independence Day, Yom Ha'Atzma'ut, which falls immediately on the heels of Yom HaShoah. With that contextualization, the group took a trip to Machane Yehuda, a boisterous and jostling open-air market where many Jerusalemites shop regularly for produce, bulk spices and dried goods, and local treats. The vibrant sights, sounds, and tastes of the market were a welcome change in the midst of weighty day. Pictured here are students enjoying two Israeli delicacies: Krembo puffs and Aroma iced coffees.

The group then proceeded to Har Herzl (Mount Herzl), Israel's national cemetery, named after the founder of modern Zionism. There, Micha'el shared the story of the solitary survivor of a pogrom in Russia, who grew up without a sense of his Jewish heritage. He also told the story of a boy whose mother put him on the last Kindertransport train leaving Austria during World War II and who was ultimately raised by an Anglican priest in England, also without a Jewish identity. After offering the two stories, Micha'el shared that the Russian boy was actually his mother's father, who is now 101 years old and living in Israel. The Austrian child, Hans, was to become Micha'el's father. The stories illustrated the significance of the State of Israel being born out of the ashes of a war-torn Europe. As a result, people like Micha'el's parents and grandparents were able to re-make their lives and discover lost identities, family members, and pieces of themselves. It is against that backdrop, Micha'el pointed out, that the sacrifices made by members of Israel's Defense Force and by Israeli citizens in general must be seen. It is why people are willing to give their lives. The group learned of Ro'ee Klein, z"l, who was an Israeli lieutenant colonel in the summer of 2006, at the time of the Second Lebanon War. Finding himself in a room packed with the rest of his battalion when he spotted a live grenade, Ro'ee called out the words of the Shema and he hurled himself onto the grenade to successfully save the lives of the rest of his team.

It was a powerful, intense day, to say the least, but the students have demonstrated extraordinary maturity and willingness to engage personally with difficult matters.

In the evening, Goucher College President Sandy Ungar joined the group for dinner. Bus 35 was treated to a program with an Israeli filmmaker on Sunday evening, and the group left Jerusalem today to spend a few days in the southern parts of Israel.

Student Journal: Day One

[authored by trip participant and Goucher student Ben S.]

Our Taglit-Birthright journey to Israel began upon our arrival at Newark airport in New Jersey. Any stress or concerns over the trip instantly abated as I left my parents, and was greeted by my friends from Goucher College along with the familiar faces from Towson University and UMBC.

After checking in and receiving an official Birthright water bottle, we got in line to speak with El Al officials. Personally, I took comfort in the brief interrogation because it showed the airline’s commitment to safety, especially given the recent current events surrounding airport security and travel.

With check-in finished and a relatively easy clearance from security, we waited for our flight. I enjoyed the wait as I got to talk with friends and meet those I had not talked with before all of which helped keep the nervous energy at bay. I also stocked up on American food for the flight and before I knew it, our group was called together by Rabbi Josh and Alison for an icebreaker.

It was great finally seeing everyone together before such a life-changing experience that we would soon be sharing. I know that the memory of my trip to Israel will remain forever with me, and it is truly special to be sharing the experience with forty other people from all over the United States.

By early afternoon, we boarded the plane. I was instantly struck by the sheer size of the aircraft as I haven’t really traveled outside of the United States for quite some time.


For the next eleven hours, I kept busy by alternating between snacking, sleeping, reading, talking with friends, and watching movies: a pretty pleasant experience overall. More importantly, I was fueled by my desire to finally get to Israel, a place that has had so much meaning to me growing up as a Jew in the United States as both my grandmother and mother went to the country years ago with their Jewish youth groups.

Before long, we arrived at the Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv where we were met by our trip’s coordinator, Rachel, our tour guide, Michael, and the Israeli soldiers who would accompany us for the next ten days.

After our welcome in Tel Aviv, we traveled by bus to a breathtaking view of Jerusalem where we learned about some of Israel’s rich history, and joined together in a welcoming ceremony. While looking over the scene with everyone finally together, I finally realized that I was actually in Israel on the journey I had been anticipating since the process began months before.

Next, we got back on the bus and drove a little farther to Park Hotel in Jerusalem. Despite having been awake for around twenty four hours already, there was a full day planned. We began with a tour of the Old City, including learning the fascinating history of various archaeological sites around the Western Wall. The idea that our forefathers had created such a magnificent structure that was still standing despite all of the conflict in Jerusalem was stunning.

Afterwards, Michael led us over to the Jewish quarter where we were given the chance to explore the area on our own. Most of the group, including myself, chose to eat falafel for lunch, which was an excellent choice. When we finished exploring, we arrived at a place Michael described as “the center of the world” as it is the joining together of the Jewish Quarter, the Arab Quarter, the Christian Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter. We spent some time playing an icebreaker (the second of the day), which was useful in retrospect because not only did it give us the chance to learn each other’s names a little better, but it also helped the group bond further. This same sense of community was solidified by lighting the Sabbath candles and singing together at the “center of the world” a few minutes later.

By around 3pm, Jerusalem’s atmosphere was visibly changing as people rushed to welcome in the Sabbath. On our brisk walk to the Western Wall, it was common to catch a glimpse of people working in their kitchens, preparing the night’s meal. Before long, we arrived at the Western Wall, an experience I’m sure every one of us will remember for years to come. There was such a tangible heightening of emotion regarding what we were about to witness with all of the religious and historical background that I was truly taken aback when we entered the holy site. With hopes for the future written on small pieces of paper, we had arrived, witnessing an enormous gathering of Jews the likes of which I have never seen.

Right at the foot of the Western Wall were throngs of people openly showing their emotion along with a raw kind of spirituality. Personally, I found myself very moved by the sheer emotion from everyone else, the joy, the intense prayer, and, basically, the unity of the Jews all around us. I know that this experience will prove pivotal in developing my Jewish identity in the coming years.

We left at around 5pm to begin with what turned out to be an arduous walk back to the hotel. Yes, Michael warned us that the walk would take around an hour and a half, but I certainly didn’t believe him. Not only was the walk a long one, but there were also some pretty intense hills to climb. Looking back, it added to the importance of the experience because, yes, could have taken the easy way out and simply taken the bus back, but instead we challenged ourselves physically, again growing closer as a result.

With Shabbat dinner at the hotel finished, our first day in Israel came to an end.

They've Arrived!

The group has landed safely in Israel. Upon arrival the students had time to exchange currencies and pick up the cell phones they rented for the trip. They'll be making a stop on their way from the airport to Jerusalem for a special welcome ceremony on the Haas Promenade, which offers a spectacular view of Jerusalem and beyond. After getting settled at the hotel where they'll be staying for the next three nights, the group will visit the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem and prepare to celebrate Shabbat together.

The weather forecast in Jerusalem for Friday is sunny with a high of 66 degrees!

Goucher President to Join Israel Trip

(A version of this article appeared in the Winter 2009 Goucher Hillel newsletter.)

Fifteen Goucher students are eagerly preparing for a ten-day, all-expense paid trip to Israel this January with Goucher Hillel and Taglit-Birthright Israel. Aaron Dorman ’10 who, like his fellow travelers, will be visiting Israel for the very first time with a group of peers, offered the following reflection at the end of a recent trip orientation: “In Hebrew School they always gave us dates from Israel, and now I’ll finally be able to see the trees where they come from.” Against the backdrop of Israel’s most historic and beautiful landmarks, each participant will take profound steps along his or her personal Jewish journey, in turn impacting Goucher’s vibrant Jewish community.

The students will also be sharing the experience with a special guest who is particularly invested in transcending boundaries: Goucher College President Sandy Ungar. Sandy and his wife Beth will be visiting Israel for the first time themselves, and they will accompany the Goucher Hillel delegation for two days of hiking and reflecting in the Negev Desert, a swim in the Dead Sea, and a visit to the ancient mountaintop fortress at Masada. “At what other college would you be able to spend time with the president of the school in a totally different country?” remarked Benjamin Snyder, a first-year student interested in studying English. Ben ultimately decided to apply for the trip because of his grandmother, with whom he had “a very close relationship.” She had been to Israel in the 1950’s, and Ben was “inspired to go on the same sort of journey as she did.”

Each participant has expressed excitement over getting to explore different aspects of their Jewish heritage firsthand. The group, to be accompanied by Rabbi Josh Snyder, plans to take off on January 7th and return on January 18th. We wish all the participants a n’siya tova - a great trip!

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